This easy circular walk is over paved and graveled paths. Distance 1 mile,
with Possible extensions of the walk to Craig Stirling and around Cran Hill
The starting point is the Mace Shop. There has been a shop on this site
since
1912 when the existing grocer moved over from the other side of Skateraw
Road
to expand his business and open a new post office The post office remained
in the
shop until the 1970s.
Proceed down Skateraw Road, which is the oldest street,in the village and
would formerly have been grassy with open drains, much like Bettridge Road
today. Until 1968 there were no street names, merely house numbers (e.g. 22
Skateraw, later 22 Newtonhill). Notice the old fisher cottages, most of them
now
extended and harled, but with attractive fish-scale tiles. On the right next
to
number 16 stands the old Smokehouse, a low white-washed building with a
square black chimney. This is the oldest and last surviving smokehouse in
the
village and is probably about 200 years old. Haddock were brought here to be
smoked over wood, after gutting and cleaning in the spring that used to
emerge
at the top of the road. The fish was mostly for use in the village but any
surplus
would be carried by the women the twelve miles to Aberdeen on a Friday to be
sold at the Green. Notice house number 31, which is the nearest to the
original
design of a one-storey stone fisherman's cottage. The loft would have been
used for storing nets and lines.
At the bottom of the road is the Braehead. It is a fine place to sit and
look out at the bay and the North Sea. Five miles or so offshore, lie oil rigs
waiting to be towed to their next destination. Many varieties of sea-birds can
be seen, as well as grey seals, dolphins, porpoises and even, very rarely,
whales. On summer evenings, you may be lucky enough to see bats. The coastal
heath on top of the
cliffs is mostly gorse and heather. There are meadow brown butterflies,
small mammals such as rabbits and stoats, and flowers such as cut-leaved
cranesbill, red campion, scabious and orchids. Behind rhe heath are fields which
have skylarks and meadow pipits in summer, and in winter are visited by
fieldfares, redwings,
and waders such as redshank, curlew and snipe. The large hill is Cran Hill
(252 feet). Some historians think there was a small village called Elsick on the
side of Cran Hill several centuries ago but no evidence has been found.
Down to the left you should take the cliff path to the beach. It is now an
easy stroll since the construction of a good path by the Newtonhill Village
Association in the 1980s. Before that time, it was muddy and steep. In the days
of the Skateraw fishing fleet, the women would carry heavy creels of fish on
their backs up from the bay, while their men would follow carrying their oars
and, hanging over them, their long lines with eight or nine hundred hooks. The
women would collect mussels and bait every hook each time the men went out
fishing.
The remains of the old pier can be seen at low tide. It was demolished for
safety reasons in the early 1980s. In the bay you will often see elder ducks.
There are still fishermen's huts, mainly for pleasure use now, though a few
boats still pur out for lobsters and crabs. Above the huts are small cliffs
where in June the yellow rock-rose and pink thrift bloom. Near the Elsicl; Burn,
there is a small colony of common blue butterflies, which fly in July. Look out
for brightly coloured goldfinches here.
Cross the stream on the plank bridge, which is occasionally swept away by
flood water. Thirty feet upstream, above the second bridge, is an extensive
clump of plants that look like red bamboo with large yellowish-green leaves
attached This is Japanese knotweed, a garden escapee, now invading much of
Scotland There is meadowsweet, with sweet smelling white flowers in summer and
clumpl of tall red great willowherb in August, a relative of the rosebay
willowherb which takes over railway embankments. On the shore stands an old
salmon bothy recently restored as a house and called "The Haven", and behind it
is Shore Cottage, originally a boatbuilder's house and yard.
At this point
you have a choice of routes:
The road beside Elsick Burn. The walk continues
along a road which follows the Elsick Burn up to the railway viaduct.
To Craig Stirling. This is more difficult, along a
less well marked path
which takes you quite near steep cliffs, so great care should be taken. It
adds an
extra three quarters of a mile to your walk.
The road around Cran Hill. This is an easy route
along gravel tracks,
adding an extra mile and a half.
Route la.
The walk continues along a road which follows the Elsick Burn up to the
railway viaduct. Up the hill to your right in May is an extensive patch of
tall
white flowers with a liquorice smell. This is sweet cicely which is not a
native
plant but is widely found. On the steep banks of the stream to the left are
short
rose plants, with small leaves. This is the white rose of Scotland, "Burnet
rose",
which has round black seed hips in the autumn. You will also see larger dog
roses,
and yellow primroses in May. There is a waterfall, surrounded by heather,
honeysuckle and ivy, with dog violets peeping out of the grass in June. In
springtime, the willow trees attract sedge and willow warblers and
whitethroat.
Continue uphill until you reach the viaduct. It was constructed when the
railway from Stonehaven to Aberdeen was opened in April 1850. During the
Second World War, German planes flew low over the village on bombing raids
but failed to destroy the viaduct.
Route Ib.
Opposite Shore Cottage (the second house after leaving the beach), there is
a
steep path up to the right, initially through bracken, to the level of the
TV aerial.
You should turn right and skirt around the edge of the field along the top
of the
cliffs to Craig Stirling. This is Newtonhill's answer to Fowlsheugh, the
RSPB
reserve south of Stonehaven. In spring and early summer there are marvellous
views of the nesting herring gulls, fulmars and kittiwakes and glimpses of
shags,
cormorants, guillemots, razorbills and puffins flying past or on the water.
You would be best advised to return by the same route from this point
because,
although the path continues northwards, it is very near the cliff edge and
quite
overgrown in parts. The views are stunning as you look south to Newtonhill
and
Muchalls and on towards Stonehaven. Return to Shore Cottage and walk up the
Elsick Burn as previously described.
To Choices
Route Ic.
Take the path through the bracken opposite Shore Cottage and carry straight
on up the side of the field on to Cran Hill. The pile of stones you can
barely see is
all that is left of the old pier. You can choose to go left or right when
you come to
the track which circles the hill.
If you go left you pass an old ruined croft and the restored steading before
you
reach the East Cammachmore road, where you should turn left down the hill to
the railway viaduct.
If you go right, you are choosing a longer walk taking you round the north
of
Cran Hill. You can follow the track which is part of the route to the
village of
Downies. In the gorse you can usually see linnets, yellowhammers and
dunnocks,
with the occasional stonechat. Roe deer, hares and foxes have been spotted
in the
early morning or at dusk. On the farmland look out for skylarks, meadow
pipits
and oystercatchers. On reaching the farm of Cobbleboards, turn left past
Back
Burn, over the railway and left on to the East Cammachmore road which will
lead
you down to the railway viaduct.
The path now crosses the stream beside the 13th century Mill of Elsick which
has been restored as a dwelling house. The mill was used to grind barley and
oats,
and it can still be seen how the water was channelled to turn the wheels.
Notice
the old mill pond with horsetails and watercress in the middle and yellow
marsh
marigolds at the outside. Frogs can be seen here and ofteh a pair of grey
wagtails.
Go up the gravel path between the fences, past hawthorn and laburnum trees
and
newly planted rowan and alder to the gate at the top of the hill. Follow the
path
to the road along the railway back to the Mace shop.
